Susan's Australian (formerly Roadside) Ramblings

New Zealand!

2011-08-09T01:11:00.000-07:00

Hi strangers,

Yes, I know I have been a terrible blogger and photographer (and penpal, for that matter) ever since settling down in Australia and becoming a worker bee again. I've recently purchased a new Mac and a new photo-editing program so I'm hoping this will soon change.

A friend recently alerted me to the fact that there was no indication evidence whatsoever on the web regarding my recent holiday to New Zealand. I thought that would be a good place to start.

(By the way, this is not my favorite photo of Dom and I but I only have three from the trip! If I find a better one on Dom's camera I will be replacing this.)

First the stats:

Holiday count - 21 days (a few of them borrowed - thanks Monash!)

Distance driven - 1626 miles (2616 km)

Nautical miles traveled - 114 miles (184 km)

Days of hiking - 7 pretty intense days

Highlights - The Milford Track (one of the great walks of NZ); Seeing the dark sports in the Milky Way in the night sky from the Mueller Hut in Mt Cook National Park; Hanging out with Dom's adorable nephews

Most painful moment - The last km of the Mueller Hut track and my ensuing sore muscles. I've never been so sore! (Call me soft but I found descending 1800 m in 5.7 km a real challenge!)

As usual, I've Google mapped our journey. Gosh, I love Google maps. When I signed into "My places" tonight I found a map I made of a trip to Nicaragua in 2002! I should have been a geographer.

View New Zealand 2011 in a larger map

Now for a few photos...

Melbourne November 7: Photo of the Day

2010-11-07T23:09:00.000-08:00

Australian Countryside

Outside Mansfield, Victoria

So often the Australian countryside reminds me of California. This particular region on the road to Jamieson reminds me of the stretch of road between Stockton an Angels Camp, a drive my family and I used to do every year on the way up to the snow. The only difference is those are gum trees, not oaks. :)

Melbourne November 6: Photo of the Day

2010-11-06T23:01:00.000-07:00

Martijn & Van's Wedding

Jamieson, Victoria

This weekend two of our closest Melbourne friends got married in the Australian countryside. It was the smallest, most simple wedding I've ever attended and quite unique. All guests were asked to contribute something they are gifted in or passionate about - their guitar playing friend did the music, photographer friends took the pictures, pastry chef friend made the cup cakes and so on and so on. Everything was a community effort and as a result everyone got to know each other and felt a part of the wedding (verses just an observer/attendee). To me the weekend encapsulated the true spirit of a wedding - a celebration of the couple and all of their friends and family.

Melbourne November 5: Photo of the Day

2010-11-05T22:56:00.000-07:00

Jockey Hat Cookies

Yarck, Victoria

I mentioned before that the races are a big deal in Australia. Maybe you're getting the idea. :) We found these jockey cookies in a pie shop in a small country town about 2 hours outside of Melbourne. Unfortunately they didn't taste nearly as good as they look.

Melbourne November 4: Photo of the Day

2010-11-04T22:47:00.000-07:00

Birthday Cappuccino

Queen Victoria Market, Melbourne

Melbourneans (and maybe even Australians in general) are coffee snobs. Nobody makes coffee at home. Instead they pick up a long black, short white or strong skinny cappuccino from their local coffee shop every morning (at no less than $3.50 a pop!). Coffee = fancy coffee. Real coffee, aka brewed coffee, doesn't exist. Not even at GAS STATIONS!! This has taken a lot of getting used to. Lucky for me I have a very nice IKEA bought french press that I use so that I can get the caffeine flowing before I walk out the door. But I have to admit - the coffee is delicious!

Melbourne November 3: Photo of the Day

2010-11-03T18:11:00.000-07:00

Mi Corazon

Brunswick East, Victoria

This is not my favorite picture. It is, however, a picture of my favorite restaurant in Melbourne so far. It's a proper Mexican restaurant (which was even hard to find in New York!) - with corn tortillas, imported Mexican beer, delicious salsa and live music every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night - and is only just a couple shops down from our apartment. SCORE! Needless to say, Dom and I are regulars!

Melbourne November 2: Photo of the Day

2010-11-02T21:57:00.000-07:00

Melbourne Cup Day

Flinders Street Station, Melbourne

The Melbourne Cup is Australia's most famous Thoroughbred horse race. The race is held every year on the second Tuesday of November, and is perhaps the biggest Melbourne social event of the year. It's such an important part of the culture that it's been made a public holiday! People travel from near and far to attend, millions of dollars are placed on bets, and horses make news headlines everyday for a week leading up to the event.

How do the men get their ladies to go? Fashion. What you're seen wearing at the races is as important as seeing the horses race, and they even have a runway prior to the race for ladies to show off! On my way to work this morning I intersected the Cup crowd at Flinders Street Railway Station where everyone was connecting to the race track. I found myself emotionally overwhelmed as I watched Melbourneans of all ages - from 7 to 75 - proudly and excitedly stroll through the train station in their best suits and prettiest dresses. It is also customary for women to wear gorgeous hats or fasteners in their hair. The race is referred to as "The race that stops a nation", and I would wholeheartedly agree.

Melbourne November 1: Photo of the Day

2010-11-01T21:43:00.000-07:00

PHOTO OF THE DAY IS BACK for the month of November - impart to force me to start taking photos again and impart to show you all this fine city I now call home. It's also a small gift to my parents to help get them excited for their Christmas visit in just a few weeks! Hope you enjoy. :)

Three Businessmen Who Brought Their Own Lunch:
Batman, Swanston and Hoddle

Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Everyday on my way to work I pass this statue in downtown Melbourne (also known as the CBD - Central Business District). It wasn't until looking up the title for this post that I realized who these men are meant to be - the three pioneers of Melbourne, John Batman, Charles Swanston and Robert Hoddle. Melbourne is full of very cool public art. In fact, it is said to be the culture capital of Australia. Some people say Melbourne is to Sydney what San Francisco is to Los Angeles. If that's the case, I definitely ended up in the right place!

Half Australian

2010-10-28T01:28:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone. After a 6 month hiatus - I'm back, inspired by some recent events worth blogging about or perhaps the new movie "The Social Network". (Actually that movie both made me want to entirely delete my online presence and update my blog at the same time. I settled on the latter.)

The big news is... I've been sponsored. Employee sponsored. (Yes, I'm employed and have been for 5 1/2 months - sorry for not letting you know.) This means that I no longer have to vacate the country at the end of February. Instead I can stay for 4 years, provided I stay employed. Since day 1 of looking for work in Australia this was the goal. (My previous visa only allowed me to work for any 1 employer for 6 months) So this is very exciting news. And the icing on the cake - I like my job.

What kind of job did I land myself down under? I'm a Communications and Change Management Manager at Australia's largest university - Monash Uni - for a project called the Virtual Learning Environment. Essentially my role is to work with a team of people to evaluate new educational technologies and determine whether they should be implemented on an university-wide level. If so, we work with our friends in IT services to implement them. At which point my role is to communicate about and help staff and students navigate the change. Right now I do a little communicating, marketing, website designing, copy writing, training, instructional designing and academic supporting. This should narrow a bit more once we have our budget approved and can hire a few specialists for the various roles. In the meantime it keeps things interesting and I'm developing new skills every day.

How did I find the job? The story is really quite serendipitous. For about a month and a half I applied to a dozen or so positions I found online, primarily with non-profits, receiving nothing but rejection letters in response. I had decided I wanted to have a go at the non-profit world again (I've never worked in non-profit before but seven years ago between jobs I vainly applied for several before landing at Google), and figured having Google on my resume would give me a leg up this time around. Turns out the non-profit industry is every bit as competitive in Australia (more so?) and without any relevant experience nor sufficient work authorization I must not have been that appealing.

Slightly discouraged I decided it was time to widen my scope or maybe volunteer for awhile to get my foot in the door. In the meantime I passed my time cleaning and re-cleaning the apartment, grocery shopping, going on brief nesting field trips to buy decorative pillows and bathroom accessories and, occasionally, baking. My guilty conscious wouldn't let me leave the apartment because I knew I should be applying for jobs. But at the same time I was spinning my wheels at home - it's amazing how unproductive you can become when you get used to not doing anything all day. But to give myself some credit - I think I was absolutely exhausted from Africa and needed some recovery time.

One day, April 18 to be exact, I decided to go to a new church. I had been riding the tram into the city most Sundays since my arrival in Australia to sit in the last row of a Uniting Church built in the 1800s with a dwindling and almost equally dated congregation. While it had its charms I had finally concluded it wasn't for me and decided to try another Uniting Church just down the road. I was impressed to the find the small sanctuary packed with people of all ages (including 20 and 30 somethings), a contemporary service and a genuinely welcoming feel. A kind women sitting next to me convinced me to join tea time after the service, and that's where I met Marnie. Turns out Marnie was the Pro Vice Chancellor of Learning & Teaching at a local university and just happened to be starting a new team dedicated to educational technologies. Four days later I sent her my resume, 1 week after that I had an interview (which was disguised as a "meeting"), and 1 day later I had a job.

And so once again my firm beliefs that everything happens for a reason and that life falls into place if only you let it have been affirmed.

And the second moral of the story? There is life after Google. Yes, folks, it might mean waiting in line for the microwave to warm up my leftovers at lunch rather than oodles of free, gorgeous gourmet food. But it's rewarding work nevertheless.

P.S. The significance of the post title - Half Australian - is that everyone at work now says I am just that. In fact, the other day my boss referred to "the Americans" she was showing around the uni and when I shot her a mock-offended look she said, "Susan, you're not American anymore. You're half Australian."

Despite this, you'll be pleased to know that I am still very much American. In fact, I'm about to head to the TAB (Australia gambling center) across the street to catch Game 4 of the American Baseball World Series on my lunch break. Go Giants!!!!!

Photo: Not mine. Or me even. www.istockphoto.com

Bright

2010-04-29T00:12:00.000-07:00

Bright, Victoria

This past weekend Australia celebrated ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corp) Day, a war memorial holiday. Dom and I decided to take advantage of the long weekend and head out of town and North to the Great Dividing Range to hike Mount Feather Top. On Friday and Saturday evening while waiting out a rain storm we stayed with some friends of Dom's who live in a small, somewhat touristy country town located 20 km from the trail head called 'Bright'. They also happen to own the local brewery, which is quite cool! What Dom failed to mention before we arrived was that Bright is THE best place to see fall foliage in all of Victoria. We arrived late Friday night so it was only on Saturday morning when I awoke to the sound of three adorable little girls playing in their room and went out on the deck that I realized that every kind of deciduous tree you could possible imagine was turning bright red, purple, yellow, pink and orange in the valley. It was beautiful and I was absolutely inspired. Needless to say, Bright is aptly named. I think its my favorite place in Australia so far and I can't wait to go back!

And yes, it is a bit strange to see fall foliage in the middle of April!

Mountain Lions in Millbrae

2010-04-23T23:27:00.000-07:00

There were two mountain lion spottings on the streets of my home town today - Millbrae, California. Pretty cool! (Albeit not exactly a travel story so thank you for indulging me.)

So as a friendly reminder to those of you that live in the San Francisco Bay Area, here is what you do in case of a mountain lion encounter.

*Face the animal.
*Make noise or throw objects (but, um, don't bend over to get those objects)
*Don't hike or jog during dawn, dust or at night
*Keep a close watch on small children (or as this warning sign found in the mountains around my home town offers, sacrifice your children in an effort to save yourself)

Here's a local news article on the incident: http://cbs5.com/local/millbrae.mountain.lion.2.1652350.html

I love small town news. :)

Diamond Mining in Canada, Who Knew?

2010-04-21T23:49:00.000-07:00

Today I began reading a book called, "The Heartless Stone - A Journey Through the World of Diamonds, Deceit, and Desire", by Tom Zoellner. I immediately liked the guy because his surname began with a "Z" and shares the same first 4 letters of my surname, but that's beside the point. The point is - I think I've discovered a new fascination.

Travelling to Africa, I visited several countries whose largest cash crop is diamonds. I wanted desperately to visit a mine, but wasn't under any false impressions - I knew this was an absurd idea. I was disappointed, however, that the trade was entirely under wraps. I never came close to a mine, nor heard anything about it. That was until Dom and I met a man who was formerly in the business. Over dinner at restaurant that was five star in another life and had since seen so few customers that we were the only ones there that evening (Gary and his wife were there because they are the new marketers/managers), Gary told us about being a manager at a mine in Kimberley, South Africa, SA's biggest mining area. He spoke fleetingly of De Beers and the corruption. He left us wanting more. We agreed that when we were back in Australia we'd learn more about the diamond trade and specifically, blood diamonds.

Yesterday our first resource arrived (Dom had to order it from America because it was nowhere to be found in Australia), and as I flipped to the table of contents I was surprised to find a chapter titled "Midnight Sun - Canada". I couldn't help myself but to skip to page 219 and start from there. I was quickly drawn back into memories of Northern Canada and my 410 mile gravel drive on the Dempster Highway to Inuvik, the Northernmost town reached by a road in Canada, inhabited primarily by Inuit people (formerly Eskimos). Descriptions of alpine tundra and permafrost brought a knowing smile to my face. And moreover, the book is so well written, not only covering diamonds but also about the history of the region, the people who inhabit it, etc., that its sure to be a great read on many levels.

Halfway through the chapter I abandoned my book for my laptop and pulled up satellite imagery on Google Maps. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere in the Northwest Territories are two diamond mines and I was going to find them. I narrowed in on the name of a lake mentioned in the book - Lac de Gras - and then began dragging my mouse around looking for something that looked a bit unusual, a spot that wasn't quite the color of the moss or granite that covers the entire Canadian North. And there they were! And because I'm nerd, I'm going to embed a map I made of it here too.

View Canadian Diamond Mines in a larger map

Reading this chapter about the land of the midnight sun reminded me of how much I learned and experienced on my trip to the Great North and how little of it made it onto my blog. While I settle here in Australia I am going to try to continue to update my blog with stories and bits and pieces of what I learned on my trip. Hopefully you'll find them as interesting as I did (and do).

And one last thing... if you have some spare time I highly recommend checking out the satellite imagery on Google Maps of the Arctic region. It is absolutely beautiful!

Encounters of an Australian Kind

2010-03-18T16:30:00.000-07:00

In my first week and a half in Victoria, Dom and I took two road trips: one to Port Fairy, a coastal town about three hours out of Melbourne, and another to Kennett River, on the Great Ocean Road, also a few hours away. Near Port Fairy there is an extinct volcano called "Tower Hill" that has been transformed into a wildlife refuge. In just a few short hours there one evening at dusk we managed to see four of Australia's most famous wild animals. The following weekend we travelled to Kennett River, known for being a haven for koalas. Sure enough there was almost a koala for every gum tree (eucalyptus) in the area. (Koalas are territorial so you rarely see more than one in a tree.) Here are a few highlights.

Roos Up to Trouble
Tower Hill, Victoria, Australia

What this picture doesn't say is that moments before this pair of roos (short for kangaroos because the Australians like to shorten anything longer than one syllable) came to a halt alongside the car they darted out right in front of us. I saw them coming from above us and alerted Dom just in time for him to slam on the breaks. While awfully cute, kangaroos are not the sharpest tool in the shed and are often the cause and victims of road accidents.

One Spiny Anteater
Tower Hill, Victoria, Australia

This is an echidna. Can we say - adorable! I just wanted to pick him up and squeeze, although obviously that wouldn't have been a good idea. While he looks a lot like a porcupine (those are some crazy spikes on his back!), his closest relative is actually the platypus. He is an ant eater. In fact, Dom and I spent a good 20 minutes watching him dig little holes with his paws and suck ants up into his nose. Echidnas, along with platypuses, are the only living mammals that lay eggs. Echidnas are actually quite shy and rare to see so encountering this friendly one was a real treat!

Emus on the Run
Tower Hill, Victoria Australia

These are emus. Emus are indigenous to Australia and are the second tallest living birds (some are as tall as 6.6 ft!) after the ostrich. They can't fly, however, they can sprint up to 31 miles an hour.

Two of the emus in this flock broke out in a fight and spooked the group. They all began to run, a curious site not just for us but also the wallaby below, who halted his snack time to look on.

Snack Time
Wallaby
Tower Hill, Victoria, Australia

This is a wallaby. Wallabies and kangaroos are often mistaken for one another, but wallabies are smaller and have feet designed for gripping rocks. They are somewhat endangered. I can't be positive yet, but I think they might be more cute than kangaroos.

Haha. Just kidding. This guy is from South Africa. :)

Rusty in Sleeping Position #4
Kennett River, Victoria, Australia

Affectionately refereed to as Mr. Koala for my first few visits, Dom and I named this little guy Rusty just before saying goodbye on our way home from a long weekend in Kennett River on the Great Ocean Road. Rusty hung from the same place, a low lying branch over a residential driveway, for the entire weekend. I visited him often and by the last day I was sure he was trying to wave. Did you know that koalas spend 16-18 hours a day motionless, sleeping most of that time, and another 3-5 eating. I guess that leaves about 1-5 to get comfortable or find a new tree?

Addendum: Three interesting/funny facts I learned while writing this post.

Blogger spellcheck doesn't know what echidnas and wallabys are
There is no universally agreed upon plural for "platypus". Scientists generally use "platypuses" or "platypus" while the correct Greek plurals would be "platypodes" or "platypoda". "Platypi" is definitely incorrect.
The word "extant" is used to refer to animals that are not extinct. (Ok, you might have known this but I didn't.)

Growing Roots

2010-03-16T22:48:00.000-07:00

After 16 apartment inspections, 4 applications, 2 rejections and significant cajoling of a local real estate agent called Kate, today Dom and I signed a one year lease on an apartment in Brunswick East, a couple kilometers outside the CBD (central business district) of Melbourne. (Yes, I am learning to think in kilometers and use handy Australian acronyms.) Actually, Dom signed the lease because with no job, no rental history and authorization to stay here for only another 11 months and 7 days I am more of a liability than an asset. In fact, with these dirty secrets I have also been rejected for a credit card and an only allowed to have a cell phone that is pre-paid. On apartment inspections I have been masquerading as Dom's "girlfriend who will be visiting from America intermittently". Nice.

And so, the roots are beginning to grow, and I can now add a check next to "Place to live" just after "Local bank account", "Phone number", and "Driving on the left hand side of the road". Next on the list... "Job".

After April 10, my new home will be:

306/408 Lygon Street
Brunswick East, Victoria 3057
Australia

Feel free to send snail mail and care packages my way. And on yes - start planning your visits!

As an addendum, it must be pointed out that the winning of this apartment was really quite uncanny. The address of my apartment in San Francisco was 3648. When I came across this listing online I knew it was somehow meant to be and it turned out to be our favorite listing as well. I don't know about you, but I definitely believe in signs.

Africa Road Map

2010-03-09T15:19:00.000-08:00

As always more details to come, but since its finished I'm moving my road map from the margin into a blog entry.

View Africa in a larger map

Welcome to Australia: Photo of the Day

2010-03-07T15:33:00.000-08:00

Cockatoo

Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia

Africa Day 99: Photo of the Day

2010-02-17T02:11:00.000-08:00

Morning Visit to the Bird Feeder

Nature's Valley, South Africa

A somewhat random post considering there are about two weeks of photos missing on either side but I loved this pic too much not to share it right away. The girls and I spent each morning at this guest house watching a myriad of some of the most exotic birds I've ever seen battle over the bird feeder. This white eye-lined little guys were among the cutest. I wanted to catch one and take it home. They were also the only kind that would stay still long enough for me to capture them.

Flying Solo on Valentine's Day

2010-02-14T01:44:00.000-08:00

Let me start this post by wishing you a very Happy Valentine's Day, whether or not you have a Valentine. For some people, Valentine's Day conjures memories of homemade cards on friends' desks in grade school, chalky candy hearts and boxes of chocolate. For me, the first things that come to mind are my friend Shana and Ethiopian food. Eternally single in February, we have a long standing tradition of toasting the holiday with injera, lentils and honey wine amidst starry eyed couples.

Yesterday after a bittersweet departure with Dom, my Valentine, in Joberg (we'll be together again in two weeks time; funny he left me the day before Vday - what do you think that means? ;) I arrived in Cape Town. The tip of Southern Africa is a pumping, young, hip, gay friendly city, surrounded by gorgeous mountains and beaches. South Africa has been a culture shock from developing Africa but Cape Town is a whole new kind of culture shock - with fancy cafes, posh bars and upscale restaurants everywhere you look. Not to mention the stylish people. My tattered backpacker clothes just won't cut it here.

Today is my last day on my own in Africa. Well really, my last morning, as in moments I am heading to the airport to pick up two of my girlfriends from New York, Jamie and Amy (or as Gabe fondly calls them - J(am)y. This morning, full of reflection over the last 3.5 months, I enjoyed a tasty capuccino from a neighborhood cafe, strolled down trendy, Bourbon Street esque Long Street and sat on a park bench and watched two squirrels attack each other mid-air in the very picturesque Company's Gardens.

While taking on Eastern and Southern Africa on my own has been a real adventure, I can very confidently say that I am looking forward to enjoying my last week in Africa with two of my best friends and also heading on to Australia where I intend to grow some roots for awhile. I know I'm painfully behind on my photos of the day and I promise I have many interesting stories to share. Look out for them all in early March. In the meantime, time to enjoy the beach, the mountains and the, of course, the wine country!

Lots of love!

Africa Day 86: Photo of the Day

2010-02-04T16:10:00.000-08:00

Elephant Parade
Kruger National Park, South Africa

Africa Day 85: Photo of the Day

2010-02-03T16:17:00.000-08:00

Rhino

Kruger National Park, South Africa

Africa Day 84: Photo of the Day

2010-02-02T16:16:00.000-08:00

Maribu Storks at Sunset
Kruger National Park, South Africa

Africa Day 81: Photo of the Day

2010-01-30T16:14:00.000-08:00

Elands River Falls
Waterval Boven, South Africa

Africa Day 80: Photo of the Day

2010-01-29T16:10:00.000-08:00

A Look Inside
Gaborone, Botswana

Africa Day 79: Photo of the Day

2010-01-28T16:10:00.000-08:00

On the Road
Somewhere between Maun & Gaborone, Botswana

Africa Day 78: Photo of the Day

2010-01-27T16:10:00.000-08:00

Reflection at Sunset

Maun, Botswana

Africa Day 77: Photo of the Day

2010-01-26T16:09:00.000-08:00

Disgruntled Elephants
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Africa Day 76: Photo of the Day

2010-01-25T16:09:00.000-08:00

Termite Mound
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Africa Day 75: Photo of the Day

2010-01-24T08:42:00.000-08:00

Sunrise on the Zambezi

Border of Zambia and Botswana

Africa Day 74: Photo of the Day

2010-01-23T08:35:00.000-08:00

Catherine, The Egg Girl
Market, Livingston, Zambia

Victoria Falls!

2010-01-23T05:32:00.000-08:00

Victoria Falls, Zambia

Greetings from Livingstone, Zambia, where yesterday I visited Victoria Falls. This time of year the falls are almost at their peak (March-May are the fullest months), and my clothes were soaked straight through as I crossed the foot bridge just opposite the falls, futilly hanging onto my umbrella. It was absolutely gorgeous, and refreshing.

Half of Victoria Falls is in Zimbabwe and the other half in Zambia. The advantage of seeing the falls from Zam is that 75% are on their side. The advantage of Zim is that you can see all of the falls at once down a corridor.

Because of the instability of Zim in the last few years, the tourist industry has all but disappeared and their gateway town, Victoria Falls, is a ghost town. I considered visiting from both sides but visa fees are prohibited and this time of year there is so much mist that you really can't see down the corridor anyway. At least, that's what I'm telling myself to keep from being disappointed.

Anyhow, enough of the boring facts. The purpose of this post was so that you could have a look at the falls in all of their glory yourself. And here they are!

Africa Day 73: Photo of the Day

2010-01-22T05:29:00.000-08:00

Victoria Falls, Zambia

Today I visited Victoria Falls from Zambia with a lovely Italian couple. The falls were absolutely breathtaking. I walked through the entire park and then across the bridge that connects to Zimbabwe to get another view. (So technically I've been to Zim even though I didn't have my passport with me. :) Anyhow, after seeing everything there was to see I said goodbye to the Italians who were headed back to town and returned to this spot. I stayed over an hour here, gazing at the falls, unable to tear myself away from them.

Africa Day 72: Photo of the Day

2010-01-21T05:29:00.000-08:00

Waiting Patiently
The Road between Lusaka and Livingston, Zambia

Africa Day 71: Photo of the Day

2010-01-20T05:28:00.000-08:00

From the Air

Somewhere between Tanzania and Zambia

Today I flew from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Lusaka, Zambia. I realize this is cheating and I'm jeapordizing the legitamacy of my blog as "roadside" ramblings, but my time is running short and the bus was going to take a harrowing straight 48 hours. While the traffic getting to the airport was a bit of a nightmare, the moment we lifted into the air I felt a wave of relief come over me. I don't think I realized until that moment how totally stressful traveling in Africa is, even when its not obviously stressful. So, for just two hours I had a break from the chaos that is Africa as we hoverer several thousand feet above, alongside beautiful fluffy clouds with pristine lakes and mountains below.

Africa Day 70: Photo of the Day

2010-01-19T08:57:00.001-08:00

Shoes for Sale

Upanga, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

In East Africa (and many other developing countries), everything you'd typically find in a grocery store or at the mall is sold on the street, literally. At the small market around the corner from where I've been staying in Dar, each day I pass this perfectly alligned row of mens dress shoes. The shoes are set up immediately next to a large pile of rotting trash that appears to be the markets dumping ground.

Africa Day 69: Photo of the Day

2010-01-18T09:09:00.000-08:00

Spit Shower

Msasani Slipway, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

While walking to catch a dala-dala (local bus) this afternoon in the Msasani area of town, I passed a few tourist huts showcasing local basketry, jewelry and artwork. This painting was displayed in front of one shop. I've seen a lot of Masaai artwork since I've been in Tanzania but this piece was particularly peculiar.

Africa Day 68: Photo of the Day

2010-01-17T08:54:00.000-08:00

Sunset over Dar
Upanga Apartment, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Mind the Gap - Photo of the Day 55 thru 67

2010-01-16T09:26:00.000-08:00

Hi folks. I have some bad news. This time I'm not behind on posting my pics of the day, I just don't have any. Truth be told, there is in this grand African adventure a gap. Day 55 through Day 67 will forever be etched in my memory, but sadly will not be recorded on this blog. Basically, I've settled down in one city - Dar es Salaam, Tanzania - for awhile with the intent of doing some volunteer work and I just haven't been taking photos. I'm a bit disappointed in myself, but am letting myself go by promising myself that my photos from Africa Part II after this little respite will be twice as good. In the meantime, I hope you are all having a very Happy New Year! Drop a line or leave a comment so I know you're alive and that you still like me.

xo,
Susan

A Happy Anniversary

2010-01-14T23:34:00.000-08:00

My travel journal is a 200 paged binder paper notebook, purchased from Urban Outfitters in 2008 for the inflated Manhattan price of $6. Upgrade features from a standard drug store notebook include an illustrated cover of long-legged, patch-work birds and an elastic band that wraps around the front so that odds and ends I've slipped inside won't fall out. I'm a poor journaler - I'm lucky if I write once a month - and so this journal has lasted me a whole year.

My journal begins on Tuesday, January 13, 2009, the evening I realized I was about to get sacked and my whole world was about to change. It was after 9 PM, and I had just finished my workout at the gym. I was waiting for an email from my manager and checked my iphone after showering. In my inbox was a notification for a suspicious 30 minute meeting first thing the following day with my manager, my manager's manager and an HR person. I quote, "It could only mean one thing, really."

That evening I called my mother, and as always, she was very wise. "She said it could be a blessing in disguise, if what I think might happen, does. She said when doors close, new ones open. And for new opportunities to preset themselves, people have to be pushed out of their comfort zones. That sometimes change can't occur without being forced along. She's right. I'm open. I'm ready to accept what's coming. I'm ready to rise to the challenge."

My 30 minute meeting turned out to be more like 10 and the news was delivered to me by a complete stranger who knew nothing about me or my work at the company for the last 5+ years. Sacrificed summers, sleepless nights, a cross-country relocation, 97% seniority, friends with execs - none of that mattered. I was betrayed. Google had changed.

Six weeks later I wrote. "Is the Googler chapter over? It has been 6 weeks now since I got the news that my job was "eliminated". The plethora of emotions I have felt since then are too hard to put into words, swaying up and down, back and forth, like a pendulum. Or maybe something more manic, like a schizophrenic. One minute I can't wait for my last day to arrive. To take off and begin exploring the world again. And with my camera. To let all of my workplace feelings of inadequacy fall away. To have a fresh start. To meet new people, see new things, be carefree. To let the wind take me where I go each day. To be answerable to no one, to nothing. To read, volunteer, lie by a pool, contemplate existence. The downside, however, means leaving my charming apartment, lovely garden, comfortable living situation, supportive friends, a new relationship, the security of a steady income, the feeling of productivity and accomplishments and a super active social life (one I've always dreamed of)."

I filled away my laptop and employee ID into the bottom drawer of my desk, and passed through the security gates of 76 9th Avenue one last time. Outside I was greeted by the bitter cold winter air. I crossed the street, took a photo of the port authority building with my iphone, headed for the bus and never looked back.

I can hardly believe a whole year has gone by. And my, oh my, what a year it has been. I am so grateful for all that I have seen, experienced and learned. I have indeed gone where the wind has taken me - from the sacred, other-worldly desert landscapes of the Southwest to the mighty, majestic peaks and valleys of the Great North and Eastern Africa. I've climbed mountains (literally) and soaked in the waters of new seas. I've met countless interesting, like-minded people from all over the world, and have spent a ridiculous amount of time by myself. I have fallen in love, and fallen out of the habit of neglecting my friends and family for things less important. I have had great moments of clarity, enlightenment and learning, and have realized how little I know.

As an anniversary exercise, I thought I'd share few random thoughts, somewhat informed opinions, and random facts I've collected/developed in the last year:

The Southwest, with the exception of Yosemite, is the most beautiful and unique place in all of America. It is a best kept secret, and you should go there.

Native American culture is still very much alive in many parts of the US and Canada. Since our education systems don't teach real American and Canadian history, we should do our best to learn what we can about these cultures on our own time and help to preserve them.

There is a place 3 hours south of Albuquerque, New Mexico, where radio towers communicate with outer space.

Green chili is mighty tasty but can sadly only really be experienced in New Mexico.

Toyota corollas are very good cars.

It's best to hike mountains in good weather.

A little bit of time on your own is good for the mind and soul. Too much time on your own makes you sensitive to your nervous habits.

Black bear - fight back. Brown bear - play dead.

Canada created a new province that is governed by their indigenous people. Its called Nunavut.

Glaciers in Alaska are receding quickly. Visit them before they are gone and we're all under water.

The people of Alaska are simple and gregarious people. Simple people are good people, and simple does not mean uneducated. The people of the lower 48 states could learn a lot about living from the people of Alaska.

It is possible to sleep with 24 hours of sunlight. In fact, the extra daylight is most convenient.

Mosquitoes are nasty, pesky, relentless creatures which can not only leave you itching like crazy but also give you life threatening diseases. It is for this reason they are on the list of 3 things I am willing to kill. The other two are ants and cockroaches.

Hunting is not all bad. Being a vegetarian and animal rights advocate, I never ever thought I would say this but traveling through northern Canada and Alaska gave me a new perspective on hunting. From aboriginal people and 3+ generation Alaskans I learned how hunters respect animals, kill humanely and take only what they need, many lifting up a blessing for the animals as it dies.

Any meal can be prepared in one pot on a one burner stove.

It is not normal for a cocktail to cost $12.

Not everyone in Alaska loves Sarah Palin.

Don't underestimate the difficulty of traveling in Africa as an independent traveller. At times, it is more hard than you would imagine.

Development aid does not always make a positive impact. In fact, it appears to me in Africa that much of it has had a negative impact. Think twice before donating money blindly. Always investigate an organization first.

One has to remind oneself when on safari that they are not at the zoo.

The western world could learn a thing or two about fashion from Africans. Women wear skirts and dresses made from the most colorful, vibrant fabrics I've ever seen.

The western world could also learn a thing or two about saving the environment from East Africa. In Rwanda they've banned plastic bags and in Tanzania they don't have paper towels or napkins. Instead a waiter comes to your table with a pitcher of water and a wash basin before and after every meal.

Air conditioning is a true blessing.

People in Africa have a kind of patience and ability to go with the flow that people in the Western world could hardly understand.

Everywhere in the world there are bad people who are willing to exploit you and even hurt you for their own advancement. There are just as many complete strangers who would take you in, give you a warm meal and soft bed, care for you and assure you with a genuine smile.

It's a really good idea to back up your photos, regularly.

Its nice to be on the move and its also nice to stand still for awhile.

Family and friends are the most important thing in this world.

Another month and a half in Africa and its off to Australia, to begin yet another new chapter. I'll miss the road but Australia will be a new road - a new country, home, relationship, job. I'm looking forward to settling down a bit, but not to worry, Australia's an awfully big country with quite a few long roads and Dom's got a car. There will be more roadside ramblings fo' shizzle!

Africa Day 54: Photo of the Day

2010-01-02T05:55:00.000-08:00

Mangapwani Slave Cave
Stone Town, Zanzibar

As part of a “Spice Tour” (which was fantastic), we had an optional stop at the Mangapwani Slave Cave. This natural cave, which was a few kilometers long and began in a village and let out at the Indian Ocean, was allegedly used for hiding East African slaves prior to transporting them to Arabia after the slave trade was abolished in the mid-19th century. The cave was a grim place. As I entered, I could sense it had a horrific past.

Africa Day 53: Photo of the Day

2010-01-01T05:51:00.000-08:00

Solitary Alley
Stone Town, Zanzibar

Africa Day 52: Photo of the Day

2009-12-31T05:47:00.000-08:00

2009 Sunset
Stone Town, Zanzibar

Africa Day 51: Photo of the Day

2009-12-30T05:45:00.000-08:00

Dolphin View Resort
Kizimkazi, Zanzibar

Places like this really do exist, and not just on motivational posters in offices!

Africa Day 50: Photo of the Day

2009-12-29T05:40:00.000-08:00

African Camera Battery, MacGyver Style
Jambiani, Zanzibar

A honeymooning couple staying at my guest house had regrettably forgotten to bring their camera battery charger. An engineer himself, the fellow, with the help of a local electric shop owner in Dar, managed to jerry-rig a charger with a piece of wood, a canon charger for a different type of camera and a few pen heads. Genius (and very Africa)!

Africa Day 49: Photo of the Day

2009-12-28T05:36:00.000-08:00

Fresh Catch
Jambiani, Zanzibar

Many men in Zanzibar make a living from fishing off the coast and selling to resorts or at markets. While I sat at a beachside restaurant enjoying a (cold) soda, I noticed a commotion on the shore. A young fisherman had just docked and was met by a large group of men, eager to claim his morning catch.

Africa Day 48: Photo of the Day

2009-12-27T05:32:00.000-08:00

Ashea
Jambiani, Zanzibar

Ashea, an adorable five year old from Jambiani, lives next door to my guest house and I find her most days playing with her friends on the beach. The first day I met her she and her friend Fatuma took the clip out of my hair and fashioned me a new hair style.

Unlike many beach towns I‘ve visited, there is no divide between resorts and the local villages here. To get from place to place in Jambiani, I weave through a maze of small structure made of white coral rock with thatched roofs. Women peer out from behind sewing machines on their front stoop, children play with sail boats made of discarded flipflops, sticks and plastic bags and men sell bottles of warm soda from makeshift store fronts.

Why would anyone want a warm soda? Well, two reasons. Some people actually prefer warm soda to cold soda here because they find it easier to drink. There also happens to be no power in Zanzibar.

Africa Day 47: Photo of the Day

2009-12-26T05:27:00.000-08:00

Palm Trees at Dusk
Jambiani, Zanzibar

Off the East Coast of Tanzania there is a cluster of islands called the Zanzibar Archipelago. Zanzibar, now famous as a tourist destination for its white sand beaches, has been a trading hub since the start of the first millennium. Settled first by the Bantu people of mainland Africa, Zanzibar was occupied by Portugal, Oman and Great Britain before gaining its independence in 1963. In 1964 Zanzibar united with mainland Tanzania to form the United Republic of Tanzania.
The white sand beaches are indeed gorgeous. So gorgeous that I’ve temporarily traded my camera in for my bathing suit and towel. Another day almost gone by without a photo, the palm trees next to my guest house were the only things I had enough light to capture.

Africa Day 46: Photo of the Day

2009-12-25T08:21:00.000-08:00

Dusk in Paradise on Christmas

Jambiani, Zanzibar

With the trek over, its time for some well deserved relaxing time on the beach. And so, I'm in Zanzibar, an archipelago off the coast of Tanzania. The sand is the whitest you've ever seen and the water, the bluest. Its a small slice of heaven, but doesn't feel a whole lot like Christmas given the heat and the palm trees. Tonight I'll have dinner with friends from my Kili hike and skype with my loved ones, a world away.

MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and your family!

Africa Day 45: Photo of the Day

2009-12-24T07:56:00.000-08:00

Christmas Eve Service at the Anglican Church

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania is predominantly Muslim but there just happened to be a Christian (Anglican) church next to my accommodation at the YMCA. I attended Christmas Eve Service for an hour. Despite it being in Swahili, I managed to follow along. First the children reinacted the story of Jesus' birth, complete with song. Then scripture was read, people sang, etc. It wasn't all that different than a protestant service, well... except for the fact that it started hours before I got there and ended well after bedtime. I snuck a shot after I left through a gate and a tree. Not that great of a pic but hopefully you can get the idea.

Africa Day 44: Photo of the Day

2009-12-23T07:44:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 6 (Final Day): Mweka Camp to Moshi

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

The last 9.3 miles of the trek were easy peasy. Our crew was in a hurry to get down and get home to their families so we practically ran. Everyone was in great spirits. How could we not be after the high of having made it to the top, not the mention the best sleep of our lives! On the way down we passed through more gorgeous rain forest, and our guide let me stop long enough to snap a photo. Stats: 9.3 miles, altitude decrease 7250 feet (10170 - 2920 ft). While I don't hope do to it again anytime soon, I highly recommend putting Kili on your bucket list!

Africa Day 43: Photo of the Day

2009-12-22T07:24:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 5: Barafu Camp to Summit (and then back to Mweka Camp)

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

I guess you're probably wondering whether or not I made it? The answer is..... YES! Its definitely on the list of the hardest physical and mental things I have done in my life. Because we got into camp late they gave us a few extra hours to sleep and we left at 3:20am rather than 12am with the other groups. When we hit the trail we could see a line of headlamps inching slowly in the darkness halfway up the mountain. About an hour in I was feeling awfully sick - I had a terrible headache and was extremely naseaus. Another few hours in and I had stomach cramping in addition to the naseau. But I was bound and determined and went "pole pole" (swahili for "slowly slowly"). Our group broke into three - I was on my own with an assistant guide in the middle. At 9:00 AM, almost 6 hours later, I made it to Stella Point (19340 ft) and the hardest stretch of the trail was behind me. At 9:50AM I reached the top - Uhuru Peak, 19,340 feet! Hurray! I was so excited and overwhelmed, I cried. Then it was two hours straight back down, two hours of rest, and another 4 hours to camp. A doozy of a day. Stats: 14.3 miles, 4410 feet altitude climb. And the pic? I snapped this just as the sun was rising. Words can't describe the beauty of the view - the trail, all rock, dusted with fresh snow, a thin layer of clouds below, and the town of Moshi just beyond. To the left, layers of sunrise behind on of Kili's smaller peaks. Quiet all around.

Africa Day 42: Photo of the Day

2009-12-21T07:11:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 4: Barranco Camp to Barafu Camp

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

I liked to refer to Day 4 as "the day the fun would be over". While it was still enjoyable, and very beautiful, it was definitely hard work. We hiked for over 8 hours, starting off with a huge wall that required all four limbs to conquer. The distance was only 8 miles, but we increased 1970 feet in altitude (from 12960 to 14930 feet) which is rough on the body. And after only a few hours rest we were to get what they call an "Alpine Start", meaning that we would begin up the mountain in the darkness and the freezing cold shortly after midnight in order to make it to the summit for sunrise. Just before we reached camp that evening, the clouds cleared long enough to get this shot. We felt like we were on top of the world. We were pretty close.

Africa Day 41: Photo of the Day

2009-12-20T06:57:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 3: Shira Camp to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

I guess its cheating if I didn't actually take the picture, isn't it? But I wanted you to see these killer cactapples (cacti-pineapples) for yourself (aren't they peculiar?) and also our great gang! From left to right, this is Kyle, Carmen, James, Janice and myself. Anyhow... today we reached the highest point I've been to in my life thus far - 15190 feet - at a place they call "Lava Tower" after a very large tower of lava at the top (duh). I also reached my goal of making it through Day 3. (Hurray!) Thanksfully, we slept much lower (at 12960 feet). When you sleep lower than the highest place you climbed that day you get a much better sleep. Going up down like this is also good for acclimitizing, which is key to making it to the top of the mountain. Daily stats: Almost 9 miles, altitude climb 2590 feet.

Africa Day 40: Photo of the Day

2009-12-19T06:34:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 2: Machame Camp to Shira Camp

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

Today was our easy day, only 5.6 miles and an elevation gain of 2820 feet (from 9780 to 12600 feet). The terrain we passed through was moorland, which was unlike anything I've ever seen - lots of rock, occassional streams and small waterfalls , stunted trees covered in hanging moss and a type of tree I've never seen before which was a sort of cross between a cactus and a pinapple. Are we having fun yet? YES!

Africa Day 39: Photo of the Day

2009-12-18T06:19:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Day 1: Moshi to Machame Camp

Machame Route, Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

While we got a bit of a late start, Day 1 went off without a hitch. We hiked just over 11 miles and climbed 6780 feet (from 3000 feet to 9780 feet). There are 5 in our group and everyone is getting along like a house on fire. I'm still feeling a bit overwhelmed but I'm also really excited. My goal is to make it through Day 3 and have fun while doing it!

Africa Day 38: Photo of the Day

2009-12-17T06:08:00.000-08:00

Packing for Kilimanjaro

Moshi, Tanzania

Tomorrow I leave on a 6 day hiking trip to (fingers crossed!) the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro, 19,341 feet (5,895 meters). Tonight I skipped dinner to pack my belongings. Thankfully I don't have to carry them myself. I'll have a porter for that. I'm mortified and terribly excited at the same time. I've wanted to hike Kilimanjaro since I first heard of it in college (thanks to Ernest Hemingway). Wish me luck!

Africa Day 37: Photo of the Day

2009-12-16T05:57:00.000-08:00

Pineapples and Transmitter Radio

Moshi Market, Tanzania

Walking through local produce markets is one of my favorite parts of traveling. Moshi has a beautifully chaotic one. I've never seen so many leafy greens in one place in my life! Unfortunately I wasn't able to take many pictures as all of the market vendors wanted me to pay them. (This is common in Tanzania.) I did, however, meet a nice local fellow who escorted me around and did his best to persuade people to let me take their picture in exchange for practicing his English. Speaking good English is the fastest way to a well paying job in Africa.

Africa Day 36: Photo of the Day

2009-12-15T01:49:00.000-08:00

Obamabilia

Moshi, Tanzania

Africans love Obama. His image is painted on store fronts, hair salons have been renamed after him and when I tell people I'm American they reply "Yes we can!" Shepard Fairy's image plastered on the back of a pickup truck transporting scrap wood was the highlight of my day today.

Africa Day 35: Photo of the Day

2009-12-14T01:46:00.000-08:00

Clouds Conceal Mt Kilimanjaro

Moshi, Tanzania

Today I arrived in Moshi, the gateway town to Mt Kilimanjaro. I've been within view of the mountain for over a week now but have yet to see it. Still I know its there, somewhere behind the clouds, and I'm anxiously awaiting my attempt to summit it.

Africa Day 34: Photo of the Day

2009-12-13T01:31:00.000-08:00

Tanzanian Wedding #2

Arusha, Tanzania

It's the weekend again and time for more weddings! Here is an example of the "Bridal Car". The bride and groom are chauffered and follow the band truck.

Africa Day 33: Photo of the Day

2009-12-12T01:26:00.000-08:00

Giraffe Procession
Near Lake Manyara, Tanzania

In Tanzania you don't have to be in a national park to spot wildlife. We found these fellows on the side of the road on our drive home from safari. True confession: giraffes are my favorite animal. And they definitely did not disappoint.

Africa Day 32: Photo of the Day

2009-12-11T01:26:00.000-08:00

Baby Lion
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

On our way out of the Serengeti ,we came across a mother with two tiger cubs relaxing on the side of the road. They were absolutely adorable. I was tempted to jump out and snuggle, but my guide discouraged this. Tiger cubs have a 40% survival rate in their first year in the Serengeti.

Africa Day 31: Photo of the Day

2009-12-10T01:00:00.000-08:00

Cheetah Searching for Lunch
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

Day 2 at Seregenti we headed out after lunch to an area called Maasai Kopye. For miles there was nothing but dry grassland and the occasional oasis o f rock and trees. Both Kory and I felt a bit impatient. What animals would possibly be out in this hot, dry area at this time of day, we were asking ourselves. Just then we got a tip from another truck. A cheetah was down the road. We raced off and straight away encountered a group of 5 reed bucks running in the opposite direction. Reed bucks have great eye sight and smell , and we were sure the y were onto the cheetah. We found him in the middle of the road just another minute away. He was indeed looking for lunch. After 10 minutes of following him he struck luck, happening upon two sleeping bucks in the creek bed. An exciting chase ensued, and both bucks managed to get away. This is exactly what I was hoping for on safari - some action with a happy ending. :) It turns out everyone has to work hard out in the bush. I always thought the little guys never stood a chance but it turns out most of them are well equipped with defense mechanisms, like better endurance, faster speeds and a keener sense of smell.

Africa Day 30: Photo of the Day

2009-12-09T01:00:00.000-08:00

Giraffe
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

On our way to the Serengeti, we drove through the Ngorongoro Conversation Area. After coming around the side of a mountain covered in terraced farmland, we were greeted by a field of giraffes and zebra grazing. It was our first time to see so many of these animals in one place and it was breathtaking.

Africa Day 29: Photo of the Day

2009-12-08T01:00:00.000-08:00

A Little Help
Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania

Safari Day 1 brought us to Lake Manyara National Park, where we say oodles of baboons, hippos, pink flamingos, elephants, giraffes, monkeys and impalas. The highlight of the day was coming across a watering hole where several elephants were bathing. We sat for nearly 20 minutes watching the elephants bathe and play. This baby elephant was having trouble climbing out of the pool on his own so his mom came to his rescue ,pushing him gentle until he could get his footing. Everyone had to hurry out of the pool at this time because the dominant male had arrived for a private swim.

Africa Day 28: Photo of the Day

2009-12-07T00:59:00.000-08:00

Maasai Woman
Longido, Tanzania

Today Kory (a friend from Cali I have met up with for safari) and I visited a Maasai village in the Longido region of Arusha. The Maasai are a semi-nomadic tribe of Northern Tanzania. The Maasai are pasturalists, and subsist primary on goat and cow meat, blood and milk. The men spend most of the year grazing their animals and women tend to the homestead. The women are responsible for building the mud and straw huts in which the Maasai live. A wife learns to build a hut f rom her mother in law, and it is said that a good home builder makes a better wife. One of the Maasai's traditions is to circumcise males between the ages of 14 and 20. During the circumcision ceremony, the boy is not allowed to move. He may not flinch or make a sound during the up to 15 minutes it takes to perform the operation or else he brings dishonor to himself. His friends and family are allowed to tease him for several hours leading up to this event. The Maasai are also known for their controversial female circumcisions. Many tribes have stopped this in recent years and instead conduct symbolic ceremonies.

Africa Day 27: Photo of the Day

2009-12-06T08:12:00.000-08:00

Wedding Ensemble

In Tanzania, wedding are celebrated by a ceremony in a church, followed by several hours of riding around town in a procession of wedding vehicles. The band, playing from the back of a pickup truck, leads the procession. They are followed by the married couple, who sit in the back of a sedan covered in flowers and ribbon. The wedding part y typically follows, oftentimes in the back of a pick-up, and then any attendees who wish to participate. On Saturdays and Sundays, the streets are flooded with these joyful processions.

Africa Day 26: Photo of the Day

2009-12-05T11:13:00.000-08:00

Residents

By Grace Disabled & Orphans Centre

Today I visited the By Grace Disabled & Orphans Centre (http://www.bygracecentre.org/) in Nairobi with my host family, Lisa, Kristoffer & Grace. They are an ex-pat family living in Nairobi and working for the UN. By Grace houses and feeds 200 orphans and educates another 100 children who have lost or been abandoned by parents with HIV/AIDS. By Grace got some very exciting news this week; for the next 2 years they have been selected to receive funding and support from the UN. The founded and director, Salome, couldn't be more elated.

Africa Day 25: Photo of the Day

2009-12-04T11:01:00.000-08:00

Daisy

Giraffe Centre, Nairobi, Kenya

The Giraffe Centre is an important breeding center for Rothschild giraffes run by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife.

Africa Day 24: Photo of the Day

2009-12-03T11:35:00.000-08:00

Acacia Tree at Dusk

Road to Nairobi, Kenya

Today was another travel day - 12 hours on a bus from Jinja, Uganda to Nairobi, Kenya. Just before the sun set I snapped a shot of an Acacia Tree from the moving vehicle. One of the things I was most excited to see in Africa was Acacia Trees. Somehow they are the epitome of Africa for me. Well, along with the animals, which I'll be seeing very soon!

Africa Day 23: Photo of the Day

2009-12-02T11:43:00.000-08:00

Sunset over the Nile

Jinja, Uganda

Rafting down Class 5 rapids at the source of the Nile River in Uganda was a once in a lifetime experience, particularly considering they are in the process of building a dam that will flatten this portion of the river. Rafting was a blast. We flipped twice. Good thing I didn't bring my camera on board! Could have stood for a better pic of the day though.

Africa Day 22: Photo of the Day

2009-12-01T11:49:00.000-08:00

This little boy is HIV+
Banda Ghetto, Kampala, Uganda

The shy little boy pictured above is 8 years old and HIV+. He received HIV from his infected mother, who now lives in a community of HIV+ mothers called Banda. At the hostel I am staying at in Kampala I met two women who are trying to support 40 women in this community by training them to make and sell beaded necklaces. In partnership with a local Ugandan they have started a non profit called Peaceful Heart Uganda (http://peacefulheartuganda.org/). Today they invited me to visit the village with them. It was a very overwhelming experience. It also happens to be World AIDS Day.

Africa Day 20: Photo of the Day

2009-11-29T13:35:00.000-08:00

Discarded Clothing of Genocide Victims Nyamata Church Genocide Memorial
Nyamata, Rwanda

At the Nymata Catholic Church, located 35 km south of Kigali, 10,000 people were murdered in and around the grounds between April 14 & 19, 1994. Tutsi's and moderate Hutu's sought refuges in churches because they thought they would be protected here. Today the clothing of the victims are strewn about the sanctuary and bones and skulls are stacked in a shrine underneath the church,

Africa Day 19: Photo of the Day

2009-11-28T13:16:00.000-08:00

Poolside at the Hotel des Mille Collines (aka Hotel Rwanda)
Kigali, Rwanda

Visiting Hotel des Mille Collines, famous for being a refuge for fleeing Tutsi's during the 1994 Rwandan genocide, was a surreal experience. Its absolutely gorgeous, and I found it difficult to comprehend the horrific events that unfolded around it. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations due to its new found popularity after the movie "Hotel Rwanda". The movie, however, was actually filmed at a hotel in South Africa rather than this one.

Africa Day 18: Photo of the Day

2009-11-27T13:05:00.000-08:00

Kigali Hotel

Kigali, Rwanda

Today was one of those days where I spent the entire day traveling, didn't take any photos and then desperately shot something before bed so there would be a pic of the day. My room at the Kigali Hotel was pretty depressing. The TV only played one channel, which featured an African reality TV show and the loud traffic and morning "Call to Prayer" at the mosque next door kept me up most of the night.

Edirisa Smiles

2009-11-27T08:10:00.000-08:00

Greetings from Rwanda, where I have just arrived after eight days of volunteering on Lake Bunyonyi in Uganda with a not for profit organization called Edirisa (http://www.edirisa.org/). I spent the majority of my volunteer time playing sports and doing art with elementary aged children and my free time hanging out with local staff. It was a great way to experience local culture and maybe in a very small way, help out.

More on my volunteer experience soon. In the meantime, you'll notice that my pics of the day for the last eight days will primarily capture students from the school at Bufuka.

Hope you all had a very filling and festive Thanksgiving surrounded by loved ones. Mine was surprising successful as I managed to have both a proper Thanksgiving meal (mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy!) and good company. This is all thanks to Sarah, the very American Education Manager of Edirisa Smiles. :)

Africa Day 17: Photo of the Day

2009-11-26T09:13:00.000-08:00

Edirisa Nusery "Top Class" Graduation

Bufuka, Uganda

This is Sarah. Sarah is in Primary 1 and was the most aggressive player on her Ultimate Frisby Team when two other volunteers and I decided to teach he P1 class a new game. I never managed to get Sarah to smile, no matter how hard I tried. In this picture, she has a baby strapped to her back and has just snuck into the nusery school graduation taking place at the local church.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Africa Day 16: Photo of the Day

2009-11-25T08:48:00.000-08:00

Kitty at Patience's House

Rutinda, Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

So... today I also had a gorgeous picture of the lake at sunset to share but I couldn't resist the adorable kitty. This was the first cat I've seen in Uganda (not even strays), and happened to be the pet of Patience, whose daughter was pictured a few days ago. She had me and two other volunteers over to her place for millet porridge and a look at her photo albums.

Africa Day 14: Photo of the Day

2009-11-23T01:14:00.000-08:00

Edirisa Nursey School Children

Bufuka, Uganda

Every morning the nursey school children, aged 3-6 (or sometimes much older, as oftentimes parents cannot afford to send their children to school that early), line up to sing their national anthem, do exercises and pray.

Africa Day 13: Photo of the Day

2009-11-22T01:09:00.000-08:00

Adella

Bufuka Primary School, Bufuka, Uganda

Adella, the baby pictured here, is the daughter of Patience, one of the primary school teachers. Patience cannot afford someone to watch Adella during schooltime so instead everyday Adella comes to school and sits outside her mother's classroom, oftentimes by herself. Adella is terrified of white people. Anytime one gets near her she begans to cry and scream.

Africa Day 12: Photo of the Day

2009-11-21T01:04:00.000-08:00

Iron

Bufuka, Uganda

Ugandans take great care to make sure they always look nice, particularly on Sundays. While I waited for some of the local ladies to get ready for church, one of them fired up the iron. The iron is warmed with hot coals and actually works fantastically.

Africa Day 11: Photo of the Day

2009-11-20T00:58:00.000-08:00

Rosette

Heart of Edirisa, Bufuka, Uganda

Rosette (also called Rosy) is one of the craft women employed by Edirisa Crafts. In the morning she sets her sewing machine out on the patio of the compound and sews to her heart's content. Rosy is 21 and one of the most joyful Uganda's I've met. She is always giggling, smiling and playing with people. Rosy will sew me an Africa blouse and skirt before I leave.

Africa Day 10: Photo of the Day

2009-11-19T11:13:00.000-08:00

Primary School Children Enjoy Lunch

Bufuka, Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

This week I will volunteer with a Slovenian organization in Uganda called Edirisa Smiles. They have a small compound in Bukufa, where I will stay. From the patio of the canteen I watch children come and go to school on small canoes. Here they are washing their plates after lunch.

Africa Day 9: Photo of the Day

2009-11-18T07:53:00.000-08:00

Pineapple Man

Kabale, Rwanda

Men on bicycles loaded down with pineapples ride around downtown Kabale, stopping to cut up tasty pinapple snacks for people. After I snapped a few shots, I indulged. Yum - nothing quite like fresh pineapple.

Africa Day 8: Photo of the Day

2009-11-17T07:53:00.000-08:00

Commerce, Coca Cola Style

Kabale, Uganda

Motorcycle Diaries, Ugandan Style

2009-11-17T03:06:00.000-08:00

Greetings from Kabale, in the Southwest of Uganda. I arrived here yesterday afternoon after hiring “special transportation” from Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. My special transport consisted of two boda bodas (motorbike taxis) – 1 for me and the other for my luggage. At $50 USD (expensive for Uganda) this seemed to be the best option, the alternative being (1) public transport - catching a pickup truck at 1AM from a town that would also require special transportation to get to or (2) a special car hire - $90 USD.

I must have forgotten I was in a rain forest.

I’m not sure how many of you have ridden on the back of a motorbike. It can be great fun at short distances; cruising with the wind blowing through your hair and feeling like a local. But spending 4 hours on the back of a bike takes it to a new level. Now, change the road from paved to dirt, and add lots of ruts, rocks and turns. Finally, consider you are in a rain forest and factor rain, mud and the occasional road turned river into the equation.

Why didn’t I do this math before I decided this was the best option?

I got comfortable on the bike, I grew comfortable with the fact that everytime we drove down a hill my driver would turn the bike off to save gas, but what I wasn’t prepared for was the pouring rain.

About 1 hour into our 4 hour drive, the skies opened up. And they didn’t let up until 5 minutes after we arrived. We made one stop, to suit up, but otherwise powered through. I gave my waterproof pants to my driver and my baseball cap to the other drive. It was the least I could do.

It was fine, at first, all part of the adventure. Then it progressed from fine to slightly uncomfortable to bearable to relatively unbearable to “if I don’t get off this bike soon, I’m going to fall off and straight into the mud”. By the last half hour, when we had reached a paved road and began to travel faster (and therefore had that much more wind blowing through out wet clothes) I began to shiver. BUT, we made it just in time. I felt awful for the drivers, who had to turn around and drive right back, their trip likely ending in darkness. I gave them a good tip (even though people don’t really tip here), and apologized profusely. My driver was shaking too. The receptionist at the hostel, however, convinced me that this was normal for locals and that I shouldn’t worry.

Pictured is my two drivers (the one I rode with on the right), and another one of the three of us. We only spent 4 hours together but I felt the experience warrented a photo.

And as for getting warm, the electricity was out when I arrived, meaning no hot showers. The man at the reception desk instead kindly arranged for water to be boiled over a fire for me and delivered to me in a wash basin. In the shower stall, I happily stood in the bucket and splashed hot water all over myself.

Doesn't this sound like fun? :)

Gorilla Encounter

2009-11-16T13:12:00.000-08:00

HI FOLKS - AS SOON AS THE INTERNET CONNECTION GETS STRONGER, THIS WILL BE A VIDEO OF A GORILLA RATHER THAN A MESSAGE. :)
Yesterday I went to visit a family of mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. There are 4 habituated families in Bwindi that 8 people are able to visit a day (per family). Bwindi is home to almost 50% (340 gorillas) of the world's mountain gorilla population. The only other mountain gorillas can be found on bordering Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It was amazing experience, although the gorillas spent most of our hour hiding in the bushes.

Africa Day 7: Photo of the Day

2009-11-16T13:10:00.000-08:00

Village People

Buhoma, Uganda

Africa Day 6: Photo of the Day

2009-11-15T12:59:00.000-08:00

Mountain Gorilla!!

Bwindi Impenetrable National Forest, Uganda

Africa Day 5: Photo of the Day

2009-11-14T12:07:00.000-08:00

Orphanage Children Perform Local Dances

Bwindi, Uganda

Africa Day 4: Photo of the Day

2009-11-13T12:02:00.000-08:00

Rural Uganda

Road to Kabale

I spent the entire day today on the bus. It was supposed to be an 8 hour journey with a connection of another 1.5 hours. Instead, after 13 hours we stopped in a town 50km shy of the connection location. There was much to take pictures of from the bus window but I decided it wouldn't be safe. This was a last minute shot before the sun set.

Africa Day 3: Photo of the Day

2009-11-12T11:56:00.000-08:00

Baby Monkey

Red Chilli Hideaway, Kampala, Uganda

A whole family of monkies appear to live on the grounds of the hostel in Kampala. I spent the better part of an hour taking photos of them. Generally, I'm afraid of monkies since being bit in Vietnam a few years back, but there were more timid than me.

Africa Day 2: Photo of the Day

2009-11-11T10:30:00.000-08:00

Bus Depot at Dusk

Kampala, Uganda

Africa Day 1: Photo of the Day

2009-11-10T10:21:00.000-08:00

Nesting Birds
Entebbe, Uganda

Like Malaria Meds Through An Hourglass, These Are the Days of my Life

2009-11-07T07:25:00.000-08:00

I’d like to introduce you to my bottle of malaria medicine. I went the doxycyclin route because I’ve taken doxy before and not had any problems with it. Doxy makes you sun sensitive. The alternatives are overpriced drugs (malarone) or strange dreams, mood swings and potential hullicinations (larium).

I have exactly 4 months and 7 days worth. And so, my bottle of malaria pills has turned into a sort of hourglass for my trip.Unfortunately, the pharmacy refused to put the medicine in vcaps (vegetarian capsules) despite my offering to provide the capsules for them. So each evening I will patiently transfer the contents of each gelatin capsule into a vegetarian one. This should be fun.

B&H, An Experience Not to Be Missed

2009-11-05T07:27:00.000-08:00

If you haven’t enjoyed a trip to B&H, America’s largest electronic store, located in Manhattan and owned and run by Hassidic Jews, you’re in for a treat on your next visit. This visit can’t be described, it must only be experienced. Just make sure you don’t stop by on Saturday, it’s closed for the Sabbath. Oh yeah, and the week that Jewish people take off to build tents (I believe its called Sukkot) - closed the whole time! Anyhow, as you can see I’ve been busy preparing for my trip. I’ve been to B&H three times this week, and I think I’m finally ready to go.

Southwest Road Trip Photos Posted

2009-10-21T14:11:00.000-07:00

Good afternoon! I am pleased to inform you that I have finally finished weeding through and post processing my photos of the Great Southwest.

You can find them here:
http://szphotography.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Southwest/9881090_ytEYG#672882846_BTTzJ

Hope you enjoy them!

Now onto Alaska....

Africa - Booked!

2009-10-20T20:43:00.000-07:00

After several weeks of pouring over guide books and websites, and more importantly, getting together with a handful of amazing ladies I know and respect to hear their tales of Africa travel, I am excited to announce that I have finally booked my ticket!

I will depart for Entebbe, Uganda, on Sunday, November 8, from New York City. The very rough plan is to spend a bit of time in Uganda, visit Rwanda, and then head back to Kenya and Tanzania overland via Uganda. In Kenya and Tanzania I hope to go on safari, attempt a summit of Mt Kilimanjaro, and spend some time volunteering in an orphanage. From there I will head south overland, initially along the coastline, toward South Africa. Other countries I hope to see en route are Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. A shout out to Rebecca, who inspired this route, having done the majority of it on her own last year. (I should point out that Rebecca was also my inspiration for moving to New York - what a cool friend!)

And unfortunately, no, I am not bringing Nutella. :(

Timing wise, I plan to spend 3-4 months in Eastern and Southern Africa. This will depend, of course, on how far I can stretch the funds (believe it or not, Africa can be extremely expensive) and whether or not I come down with an uncomfortable, exotic disease (I'll be getting all of my vaccines next week).

I cannot express to you how excited I am. I have ALWAYS wanted to go to Africa. I thought about it several years back, particularly when I took a year off to travel in 2002/2003, but I decided then that I wasn't ready. Not because it was a difficult place to travel (which I'm sure it is but hey, India wasn't exactly a piece of cake), but because I knew it would be a powerful experience and I wanted to wait a bit longer to fully appreciate it. I also don't think Africa is the kind of place you can visit for a few weeks and come away with even the slightest sense of what it is all about. Back then I thought a year would be appropriate. Now, I think 4 months is a good compromise.

My goal is not to climb a mountain or even see a lion in the wild (although, if these things happen it will be the most amazing thing ever!), but rather to get to know a few locals and learn a little bit about the cultures I encounter. I've been asking friends to connect me with friends and/or volunteer organizations in Eastern and Southern Africa, and I feel very grateful and hopeful about what has come through. If you're reading and you have a lead, I'd love to hear from you (susanz@gmail.com).

And so, there it is. Off to New York next Tuesday, Oct 27, and then Africa on Nov 8. I hope you'll stay tuned for this next adventure!

Close Encounters of the Grizzly Kind

2009-10-19T17:10:00.000-07:00

August 4, 2009

Some of you might remember Northwest Pic of the Day #50, a shot of two adolescent bears going at it in Russian River, Alaska. Well, I have a true confession. I've been holding out on you. I have a video too! So here it is. I can't take credit for anything other than being the female voice. Dominic, my travel buddy, was the camera man. (That's how I got the photo!)

I have a story of an encounter with another young bear that I often tell when sharing about the extraordinary experience of being dangerously close to wild bears at play. Many people have found it amusing, especially when I act it out, so here it is (without the hand waving).

Dominic and I went to Russian River to find bears. Russian River was rumored to be one of the few locations on the Kenai Peninsula where you were guaranteed to see both grizzlies and black bears without paying a ridiculous sum of money (some tours are $600 for a 3 hr trip!). Russian River is also one of the primary destinations for fishermen (and their wives, mothers, children and even dogs), for the very same reason - a ridiculous amount of spawning salmon (more on salmon runs in another post). In fact, during certain times of the year one must be prepared for what they call "combat fishing", which basically means hundreds of men side by side casting their line. Craziness!

Dominic had already seen quite a few at McNeil River Bear Sanctuary, perhaps the most incredible place to view grizzlies in the world! I, however, still had it at the top of my to-do list. In fact, seeing a grizzly was one of the two things I wanted to do in Alaska, the other being to touch a glacier.

Our first evening at Russian River we went for a hike to Russian River Falls, what was meant to be one of the bear viewing hot spots of the area. After at least an hour of intent staring and a bit of bush whacking in the direction of where a mother and a cub had allegedly been spotted, disappointed, we turned around the head back to camp. But just as we did, Dominic grabbed my arm. I thought we were being attacked! But instead I looked down to the river from the platform to see a tiny black bear swipe a fish, and after about a minute of gnawing, retreat back into the bushes. Better than nothing.

The following morning we had a bit better luck. A fellow in the campsite opposite us, who had been coming to Russian River with his family for years to fish, offered to take us down to the "boardwalk" and point out a few places where he has spotted bears in the past. Spending a good half hour with us, we appreciated not only the tips he offered but also the animated bear accounts that went with them.

By late afternoon we had seen a few bears close up, but nothing jaw dropping. It was time to decide whether or not we should move on, but unsatiated we resolved to hang tight.

After traveling a significant way up the river, where the banks were steep and there was no longer a boarded pathway but rather a pencil thin trail to traverse on, I convinced Dom that it was in our best interest to turn around. If we did find a bear here there would be no where for him to go but through us, and no where for us to retreat except into the middle of the river. There were also no fisherman in sight, and therefore no one to save us.

Back at the upper boardwalk, we struck gold (not real gold, you have to go to another part of Alaska for that). There were reports from passersby that there was a grizzly just a ways down the boardwalk. We hurried by, passing a small black bear hiding in the bushes.

Just then we walked smack dab into something entirely unexpected. Two fisherman were walking down the boardwalk toward us, two great big salmon each slung over their shoulders. Directly behind them was a curious, hungry bear who thought, if he was sneaky enough, he might be about to get a free meal. The fisherman walked swiftly by us, unalarmed, the bear keeping a relatively safe distance behind them. For those of us walking in the other direction, it was another story. Suddenly, we were in between the bear and his dinner.

A quick thinker in the bunch called on his bear encounter survival skills and (1) reminded us all not to run, (2) reminded us to stay together and (3) most importantly, made himself look big and started yelling at the bear, "Go, bear, go! Go!" Believe it or not, this is the most effective way of defusing an otherwise precarious bear situation. The bear, somewhat annoyed but obliging, turned around and headed the opposite way down the boardwalk. Phew. My heart was racing. I wanted to get close to wild bears but this wasn't exactly what I had signed up for.

As the bear scampered down the path, we watched as one of the men that had amassed with us followed the bear, hoping to get a good shot. The bear disappeared out of site around the corner.

Just when all seemed back to normal, shouting erupts from the direction the bear had headed. "Go, bear, go. Git. Turn around!" Uh oh. Sure enough, the bear comes bounding around the corner and who is straight in his path this time? The lone photographer. With much less rehearsed bear survival skills than the previous man, this fellow begins running back to the group. In case you don't already know this, the worst thing in the WORLD you can do when near a bear is start running. Bears are like dogs, quick movements spark their interest. And so, not more than 50 feet in front of us the photographer is bounding toward us, and on his heals is our bear.

Pandemonium ensues. We all begin screaming, "STOP RUNNING!" But to be perfectly honest, I'm not sure I wouldn't do the same thing. My heart starts beating 100 fold and promptly falls into my stomach. We all begin backing up slowly. The bear is trapped. He has no way out but through us. Dom hangs a right at the first outlet to the river and motions for me to do the same. But the way I saw it, that was the only place the bear would be able to go if we gave him enough space; I was sticking with the crowd, which is really just me plus 3 other petrified men, slowly back up until we reach more people.

A few minutes later, the bear is no longer in site and we appear safe. All are remarking what a close call it was. I am secretly wanting to kill the photographer that ran. But where is Dom and that other man's poor wife who followed Dom to the river? The panic continues to flow.

I didn't dare backtrack by myself so I waited, and waited, and waited for what seemed like hours for Dom to appear. And just then, soaked up to their knees, Dom and Kate, the abandoned wife, appeared around the corner. I can't remember the last time I was so happy to see someone in one piece. Dom explained that they decided to walk into the river so that, were the bear to come in that direction, he would have lots of space and they would have plenty of room to escape.

It took a good 20 minutes for my heart to rise back into my chest and beat like a normal person. Part of me thought I had gone mad to knowingly put myself in harms way like that. The other part of me thought it was one of the most exhilarating experience I have ever had. It made me feel alive. How incredible to be so close to a wild creature in its environment!

On a closing note, I'd like to point out that bears are not actually the violent creatures that many people mistake them for. Mother bears with cubs can be dangerous as they will defend their babies to the end. But, really, what mother wouldn't? Visiting bear inhabited areas can also be dangerous in the fall, when bears eat everything in sight because they are about to go into hibernation. Otherwise, bears are really more afraid of you than you are of them!

Have I inspired you to go on your own wild bear search? :)

Australian Work & Holiday Visa - GRANTED

2009-10-03T10:51:00.000-07:00

Its amazing how complicated applying for visas can be. When applying for my tourist visa to Burma back in 2007, I had to include my "work history" in my application. And when researching visas to Afghanistan last year (no, I wasn't really going to go there, I was just curious), I found out the application requires a letter of intent from an employer. What if you're unemployed? (Guess that would be a bit tricky for me now. :) I won't even get into how difficult it was to arrange visas for 133 programmers from 21 different countries to 11 destinations when I organized Google's Code Jam competition last year (how was that for some stats for you!). I wouldn't wish that on anyone!

I was reminded of the nightmare that is the visa application process last week when I began my application for an Australian Work & Holiday Visa. A Work & Holiday Visa is a bit more complicated than your typical tourist visa. Essentially, it allows Americans (and a few other folks), aged 18-30, to go to Australia for a year and both work and travel. The catch is you can't work for any one company for more than 6 months. The nice thing is that it doesn't require sponsorship from an employer.

Sitting down at my computer (which is basically all I do these days) I figured one dedicated afternoon would be sufficient to complete the application process. Ha - was I wrong! Turns out the application requires your birth certificate, bank statements, college transcripts, college diploma, proof of health insurance and certified copies of the bio data pages of your passport. Americans don't even have bio data pages in their passport! (Or do we? A secret encryption on page 2? And while we're talking about American passports, have you seen those god-awful images on the pages of the new ones? EMBARRASSING! I dread the day I have to renew.) I was suddenly overwhelmed. I'm an American, for goodness sake. Isn't it supposed to be a piece of cake for us to go anywhere (save the Middle East, of course). Ok, I'm just kidding, I know it's not. But aren't the US, England and Australia practically the same country. Man, I'm really offending people now. I'll stop. Anyhow, suddenly I was planning my next week around the application process.

On a whim a few nights ago I finished the online app portion and hit submit, with the intent to upload the ancillary documentation as I tracked it down. To my complete disbelief, five minutes later my application had been processed and my visa granted. GRANTED. It was not pending any kind of documentation (not even passport photos!). I could enter the country and stay for a year tomorrow if I liked. Seriously?

The moral of the story... money makes the world go round. It's pure speculation, but my humble opinion is the reason it was so simple and quick is because it cost $60 AUD more to apply online than by mail. What else could it be? Do they just make the process appear intimidating to keep the weirdos out?

Anyhow, the purpose of this long story was really just to tell you that I'm moving to Australia in March! Melbourne, Victoria to be exact. I'm very excited, and hope you are ready to begin making your plans to visit. I will make sure I have an aero bed AND a couch to accommodate all of you.

Happy 30th Birthday Dom! ;)

The National Parks, America's Best Idea

2009-10-01T22:50:00.000-07:00

Disclaimer: This post is a shameless plug for a PBS special which, if effective, will result in an additional 12 hours to your TiVo queue. I PROMISE that every moment will be well worth it! (And this is coming from someone that doesn't own a television.)

Since Sunday, September 27, PBS (Public Broadcasting Service) has been debuting a new documentary on America's National Parks - The National Parks: America's Best Idea - produced by Ken Burns. The series is comprised of six - two hour episodes, following chronologically the evolution of the park system (1851-1980). They have been shown nightly from 8-10PM, and will culminate tomorrow evening.

In addition to spectacular footage of many of the parks, the documentary is, according to the website, " a story of people: people from every conceivable background – rich and poor; famous and unknown; soldiers and scientists; natives and newcomers; idealists, artists and entrepreneurs; people who were willing to devote themselves to saving some precious portion of the land they loved, and in doing so reminded their fellow citizens of the full meaning of democracy".

It's also dripping with nationalism, but what's wrong with a little flag waving every once and awhile.

I've learned an incredible amount and have found myself inspired by the episodes I've watched so far. In fact, I've kept a small notebook and pen by my side on the couch to jot down the names of people and parks I want to learn more about once the series is over.

I feel very fortunate to live in a country that had the foresight to protect our natural wonders before they were exploited and depleted for much less noble uses. I am also grateful that I was raised with a real appreciation for these sacred places. Growing up each year my family traveled to Yosemite and our summertime vacations often involved road trips to other National Parks rather than plush cruises our beach vacations to Hawaii.

If you haven't noticed, I've taken this tradition to heart and carried it on with reckless abandon in the last few months. On my Southwest road trip I worked 3 National Parks into the itinerary - Canyonland (Utah), Arches (Utah) and Mesa Verde (Colorado), and then another 7 on my Alaska road trip - Redwoods (California), Crater Lake (Oregon), Mt Rainier (Washington), Klondike Gold Rush (Alaska), Wrangell St Elias (Alaska), Kenai Fjords (Alaska) and Denali (Alaska). (It must be mentioned that Canada has some pretty cool national parks too.)

At the gift shop at Redwoods National Park I picked up a National Park Passport. The passport includes an index of all of the parks by geographical region, and more importantly, has pages to collect cancellations from your visits. Now I have two passports that I'm committed to filling!

The other National Park paraphernalia I am quite proud of is my collection of park brochures, which I keep filed together in Nutella's center console. (If you ever want to have a look, let me know!) These brochures fold out like maps, are printed on glossy paper and are full of fantastic photos of park flora and fauna. Each has a black band on the front, proudly stating the park's name in bold white letters.

Spending some time exploring my own country has been one of the best decisions I've made in my 30s (okay, that's not a significant bar... in my lifetime), and I encourage you to get out there and check these gems out too. In the meantime, tune into this series. You can view all of the episodes online at http://www.pbs.org/nationalparks/watch-video/. They also have a great deal of written material on the site.

I'll leave you with a quote from one of the early National Park explorers, Margaret Gehrke, which is totally cheesy but absolutely true. " A few things in this beautiful old world are too big to talk about. One can only weep before so supreme a spectacle of glory and of majesty."